G'day,

Myself and my dad have recently bought a 1978 TD Gemini that was built into a rally car in 2003 to compete in the 'Gemini Series' (which had specific rules but has since been replaced with a new one make series, freeing us up for some more modifications).

The two mods I'm looking into are installing an electronic ignition system and secondly a limited slip diff. This question is regarding the electronic ignition.

First off, sorry I couldn't list the engine model as I'm not familiar with these cars as you can tell. If you want I can take a picture of the engine bay (or a specific part of the engine if you can tell me what to assist with identification) if that helps.

hey everybody.

Im putting out the call for an air conditioner compressor. Must be the type with the universal mounting housing. Must be in working condition and reasonably clean. doesnt have to have any fittings but it must be a Vee belt style pully with an electric clutch (that works).

Im in the southern suburbs of Adelaide.

Looking at paying around 30-40 bucks for one that is in good cond.

CHEERS
Ryan

I want to pull a Salisbury (or LSD) (not sure what/which it is... but the ratio is too high for towing) out of my "tonner" and replace it with a standard banjo diff (3.55).... are the yokes and the tailshafts etc the same ?... any "hitches" swapping them over ?

Also can I raise the rear 2 or 3 inches .. I have fully rebilt the front end, and the rear springs are ok, but the tonner slopes down to the rear ... NO I do not want to lower the front ... ANY IDEAS on how to raise the back chassis 2 or 3 inches ?

thanks (in advance) for you informative replys guys

Okay, I have a HJ premier, which i have taken the 6cyl auto out of, dropped in a 308 and a HZ M21, with the pull type clutch. So far so gone alright, only a few dozen little problems. I have examined the firewall and found the spot where the clutch push rod should go through (for a hq- hz push type clutch), and drilled through that, then put in the HZ clutch pedal and found its about 3 inches lower than where it obviously should be. But i wanted to know if anyone would have a clue where
a. I do need to drill
b. Is there a bracket inside the cabin that holds the cable and not just the firewall?

Also anyone had any dramas with solex locks? Drivers and boot went in perfect, but the passanger seemed sloppy.

If anyone could assist it would be very much appreciated.

Cheers, Elliott

Myself and my friend recently rebuilt my 202 black motor and we had a decent crow cam sittin round (35603) so we threw that guy in but in the fitting notes it states that it needs computer modifications which makes sense, but there is no straight foward solution to my problem :P ive looked around at things people have done to their 202's and one of the options i read about was an XF/XE ecu and TB and another was a Delco 808 ecu and a VN TB which sounds alright if i were to invest in a Kalmaker setup but the ignition is still oldskool dizzy i was wondering if i got the CAS from the EST version of the 202, all the necessary sensors and be running a coil pack and have all of this controlled by the Delco 808 remapped does anyone have any opinions or advice to offer me?

hey all, i've gone and stuck a WB disc diff in my HQ and i'm having a little trouble getting the brakes to work properly. i've used the WB booster/master cylinder setup and had new lines made up to cater for the metric fittings (grumble grumble). and after giving it a bleed at all wheels till the fluid comes out nice and clean, the pedal is still going to the floor.

i noticed while pressing the pedal with the lid off the Master Cylinder, that some fluid appears to be pushing back into the reservoirs. would this be normal or am i looking at a stuffed MC? and if it is normal, what have i done wrong with the bleeding to give me spongey brakes?

thanks in advance for any help

Hi again

Question for me this time :)

I've just put some new tyres on the G and got a feeling the speedo is out was wondering what speedo gear I need for my gearbox.

Specs:
186
Aussie 4spd
3.08 diff
Tyres are 215/65/R14

Would be great if anyone can help.

Cheers Stephen

Hope everyone's enjoying their weekend.

snorcott@gmail.com

Howdy,
I have a EK Ute in Brisbane with a rather tired 186 that is using a little too much oil for my liking. I think it is time for some work. I am after some contacts in brisbane that may be able to help with either an engine rebuild or a V6 conversion. Still weighing up costs. Cheers Guys.

Lee

I was thinking about putting a toyota 2wd hilux 5 speed gearbox into my ute, mainly because there easy to get, are they suitable for this conversion.Can you get conversion kits to put a toyota hilux 2wd 5 speed gearbox into 202 blue WB ute?. I have seen plenty for celica/supra boxes about, but nothing hilux specific.

A Few Quick Questions for you all.
Do i need any sort of pressure regulator if i replace the mechanical fuel pump with a Small solid state electric one on a Black Motor VK with Varijet carby?

Would the standard return line etc be adequete?

Which one of these would do the job?
Pressure Range- First Line
Max. Flow- Second Line

1.5 – 3.5psi
28 gph

2.5 – 4.5psi
30 gph

4.0 – 6.0psi
34 gph

Thanks for the help.

Poxy election here in WA tommorow.:( I think i may vote for myself this time. :)

Cheers Scotty

Hey Guys.

I am looking at converting from floor shift to column.

As I want to run a 4spd, I can't use the standard column.

I am thinking something along the lines of a hiace or early jap car.

Does anybody have any ideas for a 4 or 5spd column that coult be adapted to suit the Aussi linkages?

Cheers

Dave

This is in relation to Ts HEI wiring diagram for the "hold-in" method.

Got a capacitor from a sparky in town for trying the capacitor/diode arrangement. I'm not sure the old fella fully understood what I was doing so just checking if I have the right component before wiring it all together. The values on the cover look different to the 0.03 micro farad/400V; polyester/carb spec you outlined. Has a 630V headroom + I suppose the 330K = 0.033microfarad. Does it look right to you T?

Cheers, m@t

Well slowly but surely shes nearly together, hope you like!

im about to fit a black 12 port head to a red block. i have to drill out the water galleries on the block to suit the black head. i understand all this. one question, i've been told i have to drill 4 holes in the block to match the head. the head i have has 5 water gallery holes, but the gasket only has 4 holes. does anyone know whats doin with this???

Hey guys,

I few guys on here were commenting on my last post about the strip master manifold, and they where making serious HP with "ported heads"... i know what ported heads are but i just wanted some specs for B cast heads.

Cheers Trent

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When The Trans Break Locks The Bullsh*t Stops
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Here is a pic of the engine i'm doing up and yes its in the house Also I have a YELLA TERRA head for sale in melbourne local pick up will post up pics of it.

Daniel
0428 319 883
(Postcode 3030)
Email Button
"My Shed"

I have 2 Yella terra heads here one is goning on to the 186 for my ute the other I don't know at this stage. But the problem I have is that they both have been ported the same but one has larger valves then the other both sets say YT on them and they both have double springs except one set of double springs is bigger then the other so I was wondering which head I should use. It will be running a 186s carbie and manifold with extractors and roller rockers and a wade cam. Also how do you tell what stage each head is at?.

Thanks Daniel
0428 319 883
(Postcode 3030)
Email Button
"My Shed"

Building up a decent HX and bought a statesman for the disc brake diff. Statesman is a HZ so has RTS. I was gonna fit the rear swaybar to my car but was told it makes them really stiff in the back so much so that when you throw them sideways they understeer. I am building this car to have some fun in but do not want something that is gonna stop it sliding when I want it to. Anyone had any experience with these swaybars??
Thanks
Pux

Gday All, Just put a MSD 6A on my 253 which is already set-up with a Holden HEI dizzy and was wondering if the standard Bosch HEI coil will be ok or do I need something better? If I do whats recommended? Cheers.

I recently searched for methods of replacing the linkage accelerator setup for a cable setup. 68HKPREM mentioned on a post (http://oldholden.com...) that a Redline cable kit was available using the standard pedal. Has anyone else done this conversion and if so do they have photographs of the setup, or the Redline kit number.

Cheers Craig

Has anyone cut a ute down to convert into a tray (tonner) ?
I'm sorta okies with understanding what'd be required regarding the body cut'n shut but would like to know if i need to add or move any body to chassis mounts and is there anything else i need to take into consideration? For instance, is the fuel tank a worry or do the utes and Tonners share the same set up ?
Would rego time be any drama in Victoria or will we be rquired to see an engineer ? If so, any idea what that'd cost roughly ?

One more thing, I know a Tonner chassis is about 4 inches longer than a ute or van but is the extra legnth added to the rear of the chassis ? In other words, Is a Tonner the same wheelbase as a ute ?

Anything you could add or clear up would be most appreciated.

Hello – I’ve got a red 202 with a celica 5 speed behind it – it’s a CRS hydraulic conversion. It’s been great for years, but the throw out fork on the clutch is finally giving in and starting to flex… Can it be replaced without pulling the tranny…? Any advice would be greatly appreciated – thanks and regards – Luke.

Hi again Moo & other interested members!

This is the mild alteration I did to my aftermarket alloy rocker cover, so that it wouldn't dump so much oil into inlet manifold. When purchasing through the old Repco engine rebuilding workshop I asked for a second of the little tension located tin baffle plates. They happily obliged and so I recently whipped off the cover, gave it a clean and slotted this second baffle adjacent to the first.

HKing of Bris.

See Moo - chrome & alloy look dodgy when put together. Tidy, modern(?) aluminium with retro, chintzy, chrome? In my case, only the oil filler is chromed, but when combined with the aluminium cover & plates, it is NOT a good look.

This was taken before I had the LPG system fitted up last year. I would've liked a raw aluminium oil filler cap, but I've not seen one yet.

HKing of Filler-Bling.

Hi all, Have finally put the pics of the engine swap and brake upgrade into my shed for those who may be interested.
If anyone wants any info on the conversion or the parts needed just send me an email at tonynlyn@bigpond.net.au and ill try to help out.
Cheers Tony

hey guys,

I'm wondering who makes the manifold the "stripmaster" for b cast heads??? and is it anygood for weekend street use???

Cheers Trent

Hey there guys i am looking at buying a crate motor and doing everything to it myself i was wondering on anyones idea's and if they know how much it will cost i am looking for a 350 or less motor, and hoping all up it will be under 5000 as i have 10000 to do my HQ 1 tonner up, please feel free to give me idea's for my 1 tonner.

Thanks

evening all, just wondering if anybody has bought front disc brake callipers through rare spares or from any other dealer and knows their sale price?
I have a problem with a broken bleed nipple, cannot free it.

thanks in advance Matt

has anyone ever purchased these from direct_engine_parts on ebay is so are they value for money or just crap also what do trhey mean by 1.6 ratio

regards moo

as suggested by hq_ss about probably getting more Y/T head pics here are a few more for you to use also some internal pics of a 186 that has been fully rebuilt 6-7 years ago and never started my lad and myself are checking it all out before it to make sure that there are not any problems. if more pics needed let me know.From the numbers the head started life on the 23 Feb 1967 so it was a HR head originally

regards moo